Tartine

When Matteo Bruno decided the Meatball and Wine Bar had run its course on Swan Street, he replaced it with something more Parisian and kept the phone number. Tartine, run with head chef Andrew Beddoes, is a proper all-day French bistro: takeaway coffee through a window in the morning, tartines on stone-ground organic spelt sourdough through the day, natural wine and a French cheese trolley at night.

The signature steak frites arrives smothered in Montpellier butter, and brunch is happily excessive, stretching to foie gras and truffle hash browns and scallop tartare with caviar. There's a crackling fireplace, marble tables and a private room called Salon Tartine, plus a provedore corner stocking French pantry goods to take home. One of very few genuinely all-day French operations in the inner east.