Clover

Clover is the 48-seat wine bar locals credit with lifting what they call the Paris end of Swan Street. It comes from chef Charley Snadden-Wilson and Lyndon Kubis, the team behind the Alps, Milton Wine Bar and the Moon, and it made Broadsheet's best-bars-in-Richmond list within its first year.

The kitchen's rule is absolute: everything is cooked over fire, from Sydney rock oysters to Angus scotch. The wine list champions minimal-intervention producers across Australia, France, Italy and Germany, mixing experimental drops with old-world bottles, and the room is all timber and candlelight, built deliberately at neighbourhood scale. Book ahead; 48 seats go fast.