Pastarami

For thirteen years, 175 Swan St was Noir, the black-walled French bistro Peter Roddy ran until March 2024. Rather than walk away, Roddy teamed up with Jonathan Phillips, who started at Noir as an apprentice and worked his way up to head chef, and the pair rebuilt the room themselves: butter-yellow walls, cream and biscuit chequered floors, a Tasmanian oak bar and wine bottles glowing along the back wall.

The new act is simpler and warmer. Six pastas are rolled fresh each day and none costs more than $26, led by a pink peppercorn cacio e pepe mafaldine inspired by Brooklyn's cult trattoria Lilia. Two Noir favourites survived the renovation, the garlic prawn spaghetti and confit duck casarecce, and at lunch there are focaccia sandwiches through the front window. Stay for a Tim Tam Mocha Martini if you're feeling brave.