Spaghetti Club

Spaghetti Club is built around a faded orange notebook. It belonged to Mario Gugliandolo, a pastry cook from Messina who emigrated in the 1950s and whose grandson Lucas co-owns Mamas Dining Group, the team behind Hochi Mama up the road, Disuko and Suzie Q. This is the group's eighth venue and its first Italian one, and Lucas calls it a love letter to his Nonno's legacy.

Head chef Michael Flemming, ex Totti's, cooks from that inheritance: a ten-hour baked ziti, Nonno's bechamel-heavy lasagne, spaghetti vongole with bottarga, and ricotta cannoli with one confidential family ingredient. There's also, this being Melbourne, a Vegemite focaccia. The room nods to the grandparents' house with orange tiles and yellow-tinted windows, and despite the name there are only two spaghetti dishes on the menu.